Shoshone National Forest

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MT/WY – The Beartooth Highway, Shoshone National Forest, Grizzly Bear Edition (08/23)

After nearly four months of spending time in grizzly habitat, I FINALLY saw one. It was the best case scenario as I was in the safety of my car. Although the bear was much too far away for great photos, especially with my phone’s camera. Thankfully I had my Sony RX-100 with me and was able to at least capture the memory. I was jealous of those who joined me with tripods and huge lenses.

This photo was at the highest zoom on my camera, which gives you an idea of the distance I was shooting (ƒ/5 1/100 37.1mm ISO125). The rest of the photos are highly cropped. I watched this bear forage for at least an hour. It was an amazing experience.

The bear slowly grazed toward the road making it a bit easier to photograph and observe but still way too far away for my naked eye. Those with binoculars were having a great time, as well as those with mega lenses on tripods. On my Sony RX-100, ƒ/5.6 1/160 12.32mm ISO125.

ƒ/5.6 1/160 21.29mm ISO125

The bear finally turned to find more fruitful pastures. This was a great attitude pose!

There’s no doubt, this is indeed their country. According to Wikipedia, “The highest density counties for grizzly bears in Montana, roughly from east to west, are Carbon County, Gallatin County (with its southern tip dipping into Yellowstone National Park), Madison County, Lewis and Clark County, Missoula County, Glacier County, Flathead County, Lake County, Park County, and Lincoln County.” The Beartooth Highway is in Park County.

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MT/WY – The Beartooth Highway, Shoshone National Forest, Beartooth Loop National Recreation Trail (08/23)

Having spent two days hiking nearby trails on the north side of the road, I decided to give the south side a try. This trip can be accessed from three trailheads off the highway, I started across from Long Lake at the Hauser Lake Trailhead.

I knew from looking at the topography map this trail would descend initially. That’s my least favorite way to start a trail. I much prefer climbing early and descending on way back to car. Oh well, variety is the spice of life. This was a 13.7-mile, 1,500′ elevation gain/loss lollipop loop hike. Based on WOW per mile I recommend doing this as an out-and-back hike going from Hauser Trailhead to Losekamp Lake then taking the trail clockwise to Tibbs Butte Pass and on to Gardner Lake. Minus the Gardner Lake extension, the last 4 miles of the below elevation profile represents that section.

Looking down at Hauser Lake and Sawtooth Mountain in the background.

The initial part of this hike was mostly dry with limited views.

At about 2.5 miles, I reached Losekamp Lake and the loop junction. I decided to hike counterclockwise, which in retrospect was the right decision. The trail circumnavigates around Tibbs Butte, the mountain in the background.

Looking at Losekamp Lake and Sawtooth Mountain. The trail descends into the forest for a while after this lake, which didn’t look swim inviting. Dang, I was hopeful for the end of my hike.

Looking at Losekamp Lake and Tibbs Butte barely visible to the right, the other side of the loop and from where I’d reconnect to finish at the Hauser Lake Trailhead. The mountain on the left hosts Gardner Lake.

I didn’t take many photos during my time in the forest; however, this old cabin caught my eye.

What happens when you choose the wrong trail? How about a lovely waterfall on my way to Stockade Lake. The benefit was soaking my shirt here and later learning the lake wasn’t very accessible from the trail and most likely not easily swimmable.

As I worked my way around the lake and back to the trail, the lake looked a bit more inviting. But since I was already wet I skipped this off-trail exploration.

On my third day of hiking, I started finding bear crap on the trail. There were 4-5 piles but thankfully none were fresh. Since I never saw another human all day, and knowing I was in grizzly territory, I was using my bear alert voice regularly.

I found a different view of Sawtooth Mountain at the bottom of my descent.

This trail could use some love, especially the signage. As an FYI, none mention the National Scenic Trail except the trailhead signs.

The trail opens up after this junction while you follow Little Rockcreek for a bit through meadows and brush, prime bear country. You can also see up toward Beartooth Pass and The Beartooth Highway.

Looking back at Little Rockcreek and the valley.

A view back toward Tibbs Butte and Littlecreek valley.

Tibbs Butte Pass was the highlight of this hike.

Dropping back down to Losekamp Lake.

Looking back at Hauser Lake and Sawtooth Mountain as I completed the lollipop loop.

Most blooms were past peak, making these harebells a standout.

Tibbs Butte from the highway, with a view of the trail over the Pass visible on the shoulder.

Highway view of Tibbs Butte on the left, Losekamp and Stockade Lakes in the lower middle, an unnamed lake above Gardner Lake on the middle right, and the back wall of Gardner Lake on the right.

I didn’t realize at the time how this viewpoint from the Highway would provide an excellent perspective of this hike. Tibbs Butte is in the Center and the trail that took me down into the valley on the left before leading me back up to the Tibbs Butte Pass.

Gardner Lake view from The Beartooth Highway. I would have liked to visit the lake. I was out of steam from hiking the loop. Since it had a lot of less-than-WOW views per mile, I recommend instead hiking out-and-back starting at the Hauser Trailhead to Losekamp Lake then taking the trail clockwise to Tibbs Butte Pass and on to Gardner Lake.

Resources:

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MT/WY – The Beartooth Highway, Shoshone National Forest, Beartooth High Lakes Trail (08/23)

I wanted to reach the Beartooth Plateau, but since I was hesitant to backpack solo in grizzly country, I spent a couple of days hiking the Beartooth High Lakes Trail from two trailheads. The first was from Island Lake and the second from Beartooth Lake.

Sadly I wasn’t able to make it into the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness given my day hike mileage limitations.

Island Lake Trailhead

This warning was posted near the trailhead. I was glad for my bear alert voice and bear deterrent spray.

The trail initially travels along Island Lake.

Night Lake quickly follows.

Some lakes were more swimming friendly than others. This might have been good for fishing but not so much for swimming.

I was excited to find myself in more of the alpine tundra and closer to the big mountains.

I couldn’t help but wonder about the swimmability of this distant lake and figured I’d explore it on my way back to the trailhead. It was hard to stay focused on forward progress with so many lakes calling my name.

Grayling was another on-trail lake.

As was this unnamed lake.

This lake became my turnaround point as it made for a perfect lunch and swim location. Lonesome Peak became a landmark for this hike.

I followed the trail a bit further to the high point to see where the trail from Beartooth Lake connected, but once the trail started descending I said nope, that view will have to wait.

It was hard to bypass another swim at Grayline Lake but I was still plenty wet from my lunchtime swim.

By the time I made it back to Beauty Lake, just a short distance off the trail, I couldn’t resist another swim.

I said no to a swim in Night Lake.

This was a 10.6-mile 760′ elevation gain/loss out-and-back hike. You can see the benefit of starting from a high elevation trailhead.

Beartooth Lake Trailhead

The Beartooth Creek Trail begins at Beartooth Lake, connecting to the Beartooth High Lakes Trail after about 3 miles. Clay Butte is in the background, which plays host to a fire lookout I visited a few days previously.

The trail was quite wet, marshy and muddy at the northeast edge of the lake due to multiple creeks feeding into the lake. It was mid August when I hiked this area. I can only imagine the conditions in the early season. The trail leads up to the visible pass, although it’s a bit of a false pass with more and more ascending required prior to reaching the true pass about 1,000′ from the trailhead.

False Pass #1.

A few weeks earlier this meadow would have filled with blooms.

The yellows were still around.

Looking back at Beartooth Lake.

Once I crossed over the pass, I could see Lonesome Mountain, the one that dominated my hike the previous day.

This trail had a lot more rollers than the Island Lake trail. It was also a lot drier, with fewer creeks and lakes.

White Pine Bark Tree, old survivors!

I could finally see the top of Clay Butte, the rest of the tease view I got the previous day. Smoke rolled in that morning but thankfully the wind was blowing the right direction to keep it away from the area where I was hiking.

And views toward Lonesome Mountain and the other ridges more apparent during the previous day’s hike.

I finally found my first lake, probably too shallow for a swim. It was near the junction of the Beartooth High Lakes Trail.

I planned to hike to the State Line as it is also the wilderness boundary, but had low expectations I’d make it. Spoiler Alert: I didn’t make it and later I met a USFS mule team heading out to relocate a recently killed deer near the trail at the State Line. With my luck a grizzly would have been chowing down.

Pilot and Index Peaks are two of the more recognizable mountains in the Beartooths.

Native Lake at 9,800′ was a welcome sight, although I saved swimming until the afternoon when I’d come back this way.

Looking back at Native Lake.

There was no doubt this unnamed lake invited a swim. Perfect dividing rocks! This would be a great place to camp if you wanted to explore the surrounding granite.

This was a lake worth a little off-trail hiking.

I finally found ripe huckleberries.

Clay Butte and blooms.

Heading back to the pass.

Wait, what’s that I spy over there? Could that be another swimming lake?

I think I saved the best for last.

Then it was time to head back to the trailhead.

Gentian

This was a 10-mile 1,400′ elevation gain/loss out-and-back hike.

Resources:

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MT/WY – The Beartooth Highway, Custer and Shoshone National Forests, Eye Candy Edition (08/23)

This 70-mile section of Highway 212 is between Red Lodge and Cooke City, running along the Montana-Wyoming border. It had been on my list for several years but with it only being open for a few months each summer, timing is everything. I began the drive from Red Lodge.

It seemed appropriate to be welcomed to the Beartooths by this family.

You quickly gain elevation and are treated to views.

I quickly learned the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness and Mountains are all about lake-studded plateaus. From Rock Creek Vista you have a clear view of Hellroaring Plateau, a place accessible only by those with high-clearance 4×4 via Hellroaring Creek Road. There’s a possibility I could drive to the Main Fork Rock Creek Road to the Glacier Lake Trailhead. I need to research prior to my next visit.

You can see the road switchbacks on the map above and the below photo, as well as the roads accessing the plateau.

I crossed into Wyoming at a little over 10,000′ elevation and found myself wandering the nearby plateaus. The State Border is also the 45th Parallel, halfway between the North Pole and the Equator.

I found myself stopping at every pullover to gape at the views and often wander the tundra. Twin Lakes offered the first jaw-dropping views.

This nearby lake captured my attention. I ended up walking the ridge on the other side to get a better look.

This photo gives you an idea of how accessible the lakes can be if you are willing to do some off-trail wandering.

The view from the other side when I took a jaunt to the ridge as shown in the above photo.

This is the Beartooth Basin Summer Ski Area. Ski lifts are visible and you can see by the amount of remaining snow how much there would be when the road opens around Memorial Day. Twin Lakes is in the distance.

This is Gardner Lake which is a terminus for the Beartooth Loop National Scenic Trail. I hiked it later during my visit by starting at an alternate trailhead. Notice the small lake on the hill at the end of the lake. I did some off-trail exploration but ultimately decided it wasn’t worth my effort, as I quickly grew tired of the traffic noise. This is a very popular route for motorcyclists with large groups often around 30 making for hundreds per day. I believe the maximum length recommendation is 40 feet. I saw a few tour-size buses and many smaller-style RVs.

I picked up the free brochure that provided information for different mileage along the road. One was a view of the Bear’s Tooth, for which these mountains were named.

So many mountains, so many lakes, and so much beauty. It took my breath away and kept me taking more and more photos.

While out wandering I spied a lake tucked under Beartooth Mountain.

Want to feel like you are on top of the world? You can ramble those grassy plateaus all day long.

I spent a lot of time at this pass as not only did it offer WOW views but also was the only place with cell signal (very intermittent). You can also disperse camp here, although it gets VERY windy and can make for disruptive sleep.

Once you drop down to the other side, there are more lakes and more views. Oh and lots of curvey switchbacks to descend.

You can see how the road passes next to or very near many lakes, making for excellent access for non-hikers.

This is Frozen Lake. I wondered about its depth and if that’s why it tends to be frozen longer than many others.

Long Lake is next to the highway, offering not only lake access but endless alpine wandering options.

I called this Wee Bear Lake, as it wasn’t too far from Little Bear Lake. The bare-faced mountain in the background contains the switchback-road coming down from Beartooth Pass. There are so many lakes in these mountains, most are unnamed.

Island Lake includes a campground, boat launch, day use picnic area and is one of the trailheads to the Beartooth High Lakes Trail. That hike will be detailed in a future post.

There’s a resort between Island and Beartooth Lakes called Top of the World. Funny, it’s about 1,500′ lower than the Pass but includes the Pass elevation on their merchandise. The tiny market inside the store has a dismal selection, so come prepared to be self-sufficient except for ice. They also have gas pumps.

The area’s namesake, Beartooth Lake, is similar to Island Lake in that it also offers a campground, picnic area, and boat launch, and is a trailhead leading to the High Lakes Trail. Clay Butte is in the background.

Clay Butte Lookout Tower

I walked the closed road up to the tower where you could look down on Beartooth Lake.

I captured this view of “The Little Old Lady Going Into Her House” from the highway.

The view from the lookout of the road I hiked and the impressive mountain range.

On my hike from Beartooth Lake, I was able to see Clay Butte from the other side. I’ll share those photos in that separate post.

These meadows would have been filled with blooms a few weeks ago, but I found a few remaining worth photographing.

Wildlife

There were plenty of marmots and pika awaiting their portrait photo.

These signs and warnings give me anxiety when hiking on sparsely popular trails as a solo hiker. I’ve grown accustomed to these warnings since I started hiking in Banff in May, they remained all the way through Canada, into Glacier, the Pintlers and now here in the Beartooths. I’d been in grizzly country for nearly four months and had yet to see one of those big bad furry things.

FINALLY, on the morning I was leaving I had my opportunity. Here’s a teaser photo. There will be a separate post with many more subpar photos.

Tips:

  • You might not want to tent camp in this area as grizzlies are known to roam. Purchase bear deterrent spray prior to driving the road if you plan to do any wandering.
  • Come prepared for varied temperatures. My lowest was 34F in my car (about 28F outside).
  • There was standing water from melting snow in mid August, plus plenty of mucky wet areas from seeps and springs. As a result mosquitoes and biting flies were out, even at Beartooth Pass.
  • This map and book were great resources.
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WY – Lizard Head / Bear Lakes, Southern Wind River Mountains, Popo Agie Wilderness

Soon enough it was time to say goodbye to South Fork Lakes (see previous post for hike details). 

Valentine Lake was much larger than anticipated. 

The day started with a climb on Bears Ears Trail to the junction with Lizard Head Trail #714. Nancy’s book provided an off-trail option direct from South Fork Lakes. In retrospect I wish I would have taken it.

The trail is nicely switchbacked and sandwiched between the boulders. This is a group of NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) students working their way down the trail while I’m climbing up. The gap is the junction for Bears Ears and Lizard Head Trails. If I’d gone cross country, I’d be coming up on the shoulder, bypassing this climb. It took me about 90 minutes to climb the 2.5 miles from the Moss Lake junction to the Lizard Head Junction.

Look closely and you can see the group of 10 NOLS students now down below me. 

This cairn marks the summit, false summit that is . . . . 

Final push. 

Success! 

My guidebook recommends visiting a viewpoint. I’m assuming this is it as I saw a couple people standing on top as I was completing the climb. This gully is where I would have been ascending off trail. Looks can be deceiving. Easier? Who knows. 

And then it was time for more ascending and earned views. 

Are you Lizard Head? Cathedral Peak? or the Viewpoint? With heavy legs, today would not be one for additional exploration. 

Lizard Head Plateau was so different from anything I’d seen to date in the Winds. Quite enjoyable and the first flattish hiking I’ve experienced in this range. 

Even flattish had summits marked by a stick or cairn, or in this case both. 

I believe this is Lizard Head Peak and Lakes. 

Lizard Head Peak and Bear Lakes. 

I was so thankful to see this sign as I’d been descending for a long time on a pretty steep trail. My body was tired of fighting gravity. 

This somewhat fresh kill bone was on the trail to Bear Lakes. Any ideas? I’ve been told possibly cow. If so, it was either carried a long distance or a lost stray as there is no open grazing for miles and miles. 

There were quite a few campers in the area, but I found a nice view with waterfall feature site, ensuring first I was the mandatory 200 feet away from the lakes edge. This was my first day in nearly a month with dry feet and even though I was camped in a green area, I had a dry tent in the morning, thanks to a breeze to dry out the few overnight sprinkles. 

To be continued . . .

Hike Details:

  • Date(s) Hiked: 8/11/17
  • Mileage: Approximately 10 (conserving battery so didn’t track)
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: Unknown, constant up and down (conserving battery so didn’t track)
  • Trail Conditions:
    • Tree obstacles: minimal
    • Overgrowth: minimal
    • Signage: moderate on main trails
    • Terrain: rocky and steep in sections, mucky in others (my most challenging day)
  • Water: plentiful
  • Camping: excellent
  • Solitude: Moderate. I saw a solo guy on the ascent to the junction of Bears Ears and Lizard Head plus the group of 10 NOLS students. Didn’t see anyone else until Bear Lakes where there were lots of folks including another groups of NOLS students. Overall it was quiet and there were plenty of spots to camp away from others.
  • Bugs: plentiful but I didn’t need deet (my second lake with overwhelming gnats)
  • Wildlife Sightings: none beyond birds, squirrels, chipmunks, pika, and marmuts
  • Precip: expect thunderstorms in July/August; I’ve been wet and dumped on with hail and rain nearly daily
  • Temp: Overnight varied and seemed to fluctuate a lot in the 30’s and 40’s, highs were probably in 60’s-70’s.
  • Jan’s Cherry Picker Delight Scale: 4++ cherries (out of 5).

Tips:

  • Be prepared for altitude, elevation changes, weather changes, bugs and navigation. Also review current food protection requirements/guidelines (I used an Ursack with an Opsack liner). 

Links:

Resources:

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WY – Popo Agie Wilderness, Big Sandy Trailhead (Part 3 of 5)

I prepare for trips by giving myself many options. This gives me the flexibility to revise my loose itinerary on the fly. Today called for cross-country travel to Rabbit Ears Lake, over Macon Pass and on to Washakie Lake, my legs were feeling the fatigue of the previous days so I told myself I’d make a decision at the junction. I said goodbye to Baptiste Lake and Mount Hooker (see previous post for details).

Soon enough I was back on Bears Ears Trail #716 heading toward Grave Lake. 

The sound of rushing water always gets my attention. 

Soon enough I found myself at Grave Lake. What a HUGE body of water. It was so nice being on trail. The fatigued muscles said we like this option. To reach Rabbit Ears Lake, I would have crossed the Grave Lake outlet and worked my way south along the outlet stream. I’m sure it would have been fun, but I’ve learned to listen to my body and that internal voice. For safety reasons, I send out an InReach message whenever I change trails, go off trail, or find myself in a risky situations such as crossing rivers. 

I found a beach at Grave Lake! 

More importantly I found a civilized way to cross waterways, not that it mattered at this point as I’d had wet feet for days. I wear quick dry trail shoes with merino wool socks for blister management. I dry out my feet on breaks. Putting on wet socks in the morning is still one of my least favorite things but since they’ll be wet within 5 minutes it doesn’t make sense to put on dry ones. 

Grave Lake. 

I dropped back into tree line where I found these gems. 

I decided it was time to rebuild my log crossing confidence. SUCCESS! 

This junction is a little confusing. It was time to look carefully at the map. 

I’d be staying on the Bears Ears Trail to the Washakie Trail junction.

This junction at Ranger Park had met continuing my journey east on the Bears Ears Trail. 

I believe this is Payson Peak. 

As per usual, I was hiking through yet another afternoon thunderstorm. Favorite gear these past few weeks in the Winds has been my umbrella and poncho. 

Upper Valentine Lake. 

First view of South Fork Lake. 

The smallest of the lakes in the South Fork Basin. Notice the waterfall! 

I positioned my tent to enjoy nature’s music while also having views of the lake. Yes, those are my socks on top of my tent. I was hoping for drying time between storms. 

South Fork Lake. Here’s a fun story. Upon arrival at the lake, I found my friend Bill who I met a few weeks ago, shared some miles and camp at Tayo Lake. The Winds are indeed a small place. He was parked at the furthest northwest trailhead while I was at the furthest southwest. What a coincidence! 

I had the basin to myself as far I could tell. There had been four fishermen visiting, including Bill, when I arrived but they all returned to Valentine Lake before sunset. 

I was entertained by this light show as the sun slid behind the peak. 

Watching the sun kiss the mountains is my favorite morning activity. 

To be continued . . .

Hike Details:

  • Date(s) Hiked: 8/10/17
  • Mileage: Approximately 8-10 (conserving battery so didn’t track)
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: Unknown, constant up and down (conserving battery so didn’t track)
  • Trail Conditions:
    • Tree obstacles: minimal
    • Overgrowth: minimal
    • Signage: moderate on main trails
    • Terrain: rocky in some places, mucky in others
  • Water: plentiful
  • Camping: excellent
  • Solitude: High! Met a large group hiking toward Hailey Pass, one solo guy, and a group who’d stayed at South Fork Lakes the previous night, plus the four fishermen at South Fork Lakes
  • Bugs: plentiful but I didn’t need deet (overwhelming gnats at South Fork Lakes)
  • Wildlife Sightings: none beyond birds, squirrels, chipmunks, pika, and marmuts
  • Precip: expect thunderstorms in July/August; I’ve been wet and dumped on with hail and rain nearly daily
  • Temp: Overnight varied and seemed to fluctuate a lot in the 30’s and 40’s, highs were probably in 60’s-70’s.
  • Jan’s Cherry Picker Delight Scale: 4+ cherries (out of 5).

Tips:

  • Be prepared for altitude, elevation changes, weather changes, bugs and navigation. Also review current food protection requirements/guidelines (I used an Ursack with an Opsack liner). 

Links:

Resources:

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WY – Bridger and Popo Agie Wildernesses, Big Sandy Trailhead (Part 2 of 5)

My next destination was Pyramid Lake. It was a cross country trek from East Fork Lakes (see previous post for details on the hike to the lakes). With Pyramid Peak flagging the way, it’s pretty hard to get lost. 

These cute little trees made me giggle. I think Dr. Seuss has been visiting again. 

Looking back at the East Fork range and the pass to Pyramid Lake. 

Looking south from Pyramid Lake. As per usual, it was thunderstorm time. 

Those dark clouds surrounding Pyramid Lake sure add to the ominous feeling. 

After waiting out yet another hail storm, followed by cold rain, I elected to take anti-hypothermia measures by setting up camp at Mae Lake. The next day I’d tackle Hailey Pass which is tucked in that ridge behind Pyramid Peak. 

The next morning it was go time. 

Nancy Pallister’s book, “Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains,”  showed an off-trail short-cut saving about a mile. With everything being wet, I decided to play it safe and take the trail. I was in no mood for slip sliding slogging.  

Looking back at Mae Lake and Mount Gelkie (I believe). 

Find the cairns and do a little boulder scrambling. 

Almost there. 

First though, time to plow through a little snow. 

Darn false summits. First I must pass by partially frozen Twin Lakes. 

What? another false summit. 

Second Twin Lake.

Now I’m almost to the top of the Hailey Pass. 

Looking back at Upper Twin Lake. 

YIPPEE!!! It took me about 2.5 hours to cover the 1.8 miles; however, I stopped at one of the Twin Lakes to dry my gear and eat a snack. 

I absolutely loved the views from the pass vantage point. 

In the Winds, you soon learn what goes up must go down . . .in this case all the way to the bottom, which happens to be the drainage basin from Graves Lake. 

The descent begins with a snowfield, not my favorite. If you look closely in the middle, you’ll see a couple who’ve made it through the steep and are now on the flatter snowfield. It gives an idea of proportions. 

I had a terrifying descent at Mount Whitney last year and was not looking forward to a repeat. I did not have microspikes with me, and was not prepared for glissading as (1) I was wearing a skirt and did not have rain pants; (2) it was hailing and raining so I did not want to expedite hypothermia; and (3) I’m not comfortable with out of control speed. 

Looking back up at that snowfield. 

My direction of travel. 

Looking back at Hailey Pass. 

Time to head east on Bears Ears Trail #716.

Baptiste Lake. According to Nancy Pallister’s book, “only the south tip is on public land, the remaining is on the Wind River Indian Reservation, only accessed if you have a permit for the day.” I heard it’s a $10,000 fine for being caught without a permit. As of this writing, permits are $80 per person per week, available also in other increments.

See my tent snug as a bug? 

Morning light on Mount Hooker. Notice the waterfall? This was the first of three I slept near. 

To be continued . . .

Hike Details:

  • Date(s) Hiked: 8/8-9/17
  • Mileage: Approximately 12-13 (conserving battery so didn’t track)
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: Unknown, constant up and down (conserving battery so didn’t track)
  • Trail Conditions:
    • Tree obstacles: minimal
    • Overgrowth: minimal
    • Signage: moderate on main trails
    • Terrain: very good, a few spots of muck
  • Water: plentiful
  • Camping: excellent
  • Solitude: High! Saw a handful of people near Pyramid Lake, didn’t see anyone at Mae Lake until I was leaving in the morning and they were several tents at the opposite end. Met a couple who were also ascending Hailey Pass. I had Baptiste Lake to myself until around 8pm and then one hiker arrived and set up tent on south side of lake whereas I was on west side.
  • Bugs: plentiful but I didn’t need deet
  • Wildlife Sightings: none beyond birds, squirrels, chipmunks, pika, and marmuts
  • Precip: expect thunderstorms in July/August; I’ve been wet and dumped on with hail and rain nearly daily
  • Temp: Overnight varied and seemed to fluctuate a lot in the 30’s and 40’s, highs were probably in 60’s-70’s.
  • Jan’s Cherry Picker Delight Scale: 5 cherries (out of 5). This was a high WOW day!

Tips:

  • Be prepared for altitude, elevation changes, weather changes, bugs and navigation. Also review current food protection requirements/guidelines (I used an Ursack with an Opsack liner). 

Links:

Resources:

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WY – Popo Agie Wilderness, Worthen Meadows Trailhead (Stough Creek Lakes)

My recent visit to the Stough Creek Lakes Basin was all too short and left me fantasizing about rambling those beautiful ridges of Roaring Fork Mountain.

My friend Keith joined me for this adventure. The plan was to take the Stough Creek Lakes Trail #702 directly to the Stough Creek Basin which is surrounded by Roaring Fork Mountain, a U-shaped range.

Just a short-distance down the trail, we ran into the Llama Mamas from Colorado, whom I’d met at Big Stough Lake during my previous trip. It was their first day and my last day; this time the reverse as it was my first day, their last. What a fun reunion! 

I confidently but erroneously led us down the Sheep Bridge Trail #701. I could blame Keith for the distraction, but maybe it was just meant to be. Thankfully I had maps and realized we could take new-to-me trails, Twin Lakes to Stough Creek, turning this into a loop trip. I call these happy accidents!

One of the Twin Lakes. 

It would have been easy to miss this junction as the sign was on the ground, and the trail immediately crossed a creek. 

The Stough Creek Trail . . . as suspected meanders along the creek. It was in pretty good shape and a great alternative to taking the Roaring Creek Lake Trail.

This Middle Fork sign is cause for confusion as you’re on the Stough Creek Trail, which according to my map you’d continue on west for 1.4 miles prior to reaching the Middle Fork trail. 

Because of our alternate route, we had to cross Stough Creek at the place were I’d fallen off the log the previous week, wrenching my knee. We both elected to walk through the water skipping a potential repeat experience. 

This is another confusing sign. It’s only about a mile, not 3 miles to the Stough Creek Basin. The Middle Fork Trail is now 1.7 miles west (not north as the sign points). Roaring Fork Lake is 5.7 miles not 4. 

It’s pretty hard to keep your feet dry when tromping through wet meadows and muck surrounding the lakes. 

Although we could have avoided the snow, it was an easy walking surface in the afternoon. 

We camped near Footprint Lake, under thunderstorm skies. 

Just after dinner we were treated to a hail storm. 

Not a bad room with a view. 

Our goal is the high ridge on the left of the lake.

We started with a traverse on the right of Footprint Lake. 

One concern was whether the shelf in the middle (under the pointy peak) would be sufficiently wide to safely traverse. 

Wonder what’s behind the ridge? 

Keith successfully made it to the top of the first hump. 

We found Toad Lakes and Ponds. There are a couple wildfires in Wyoming with subsequent smoke in the air. 

It was exciting to discover partially frozen Eyrie Lake.

Then it was time to work our way up the next slope. 

Lightning Lake on top, Zig-Zag Lake to the left, Footprint Lake at bottom. 

Finally we found the namesake shape of Footprint Lake. 

We arrived at the shelf and found it plenty wide for safe passage. 

Then it was time to traverse around Lightning Lake. 

Our goal is still the ridge on the other side of Lightning Lake.

Lightning Lake had many faces. 

Working our way up. Where’s Keith? 

The final push to the top. Can you find Keith? 

We made it to the first viewpoint where we could see Canyon Lake. 

We found a good lunch spot before scrambling just a bit higher. 

And a treacherous cornice. 

We had a great view of Stough Lake basin including Lightning Lake, Footprint Lake, Shoal Lake and Big Stough Lake. 

What did our route look like? 

Our ramble wasn’t many miles but it sure was a workout. 

Back at Footprint Lake, it was siesta time! 

Another night with glorious views. 

The next morning we were treated to a colorful sunrise. 

We returned to the trailhead via Roaring Creek Lake, first enjoying a view of Wind River Peak, the highest mountain in the Winds, thus aptly given the namesake. 

The finale was crossing Roaring Creek Lake.

Hike Details:

  • Date(s) Hiked: 8/2-4/17
  • Mileage: Approximately 22 miles
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: Unknown, but a LOT. Thus far in the Winds I’ve found very little flat.
  • Trail Conditions:
    • Tree obstacles: All clear!
    • Overgrowth: Main trails, zero. A bit on the secondary trails to the lakes
    • Signage: Confusing at a couple junctions; mileages inaccurate
    • Terrain: Good on main trails with some snow and muddy muck conditions
  • Water: Plentiful
  • Camping: Plentiful
  • Solitude: Moderate. We only saw the Llama Mamas between the trailhead and the basin. There were a few groups camped in the basin. We crossed paths were several groups near the trailhead as we exited.
  • Bugs: Plentiful although I didn’t need deet
  • Precip: Thunderstorms daily in July and early August
  • Temp: Lows of 30’s to 40’s, highs 60’s to 80’s.
  • Jan’s Cherry Picker Delight Scale: 4++ cherries (out of 5). Would be a 5 if trails weren’t so mucky from livestock.

Tips:

  • Be prepared for altitude, elevation changes, weather changes, snow, bugs and navigation.

Resources:

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WY – Popo Agie Wilderness, Worthen Meadows Trailhead (Part 3 of 3)

Under crisp blue skies, Bill and I said goodbye to beautiful Tayo Lake. This is a continuation of a trek which started at Sheep Bridge Trailhead and traversed counterclockwise to Deep Creek Lakes (link to Part 1), then south through Ice Creek Lakes and on to Tayo Lake (link to Part 2).

We hiked cross country in search of Coon Lake.

From Coon Lake we hiked to Mountain Sheep Lake.

Back at the Ice Lakes/Tayo Lake junction, it was time to say goodbye to my new friend Bill. He was headed north, while I began the eastern trek to hopefully complete my counterclockwise loop. 

Based on beta, crossing the Middle Fork of Popo Agie River may be my turnaround point. I’d been told it could be too high, to look for braided waterways for safer crossing, but instead I found a wide slow shallow outlet. 

The worst part was wading through the 6-8′  stretches of muck on both edges of the outlet crossing. 

I’d been stressing about this crossing since the beginning of the trip. I was so glad to have it behind me, avoiding a dreaded reverse course. 

Tayo Park. I passed through many of these meadow or green belt areas and sadly didn’t seen any big wildlife.

I’d asked Bill about Sweetwater Gap and he said it wasn’t memorable, so I’d planned to skip this short out and back. It was getting late and I was thinking it was about time to find camp. 

I didn’t consult my map and for some reason thought I was supposed to take the Sweetwater Gap Trail #700 to connect with Stough Creek Lakes Trail #702. Along the way I heard crashing water and just had to go off trail to find this waterfall. Maybe this was why I was destined to take this trail?

Looks like Yogi liked this trail also. 

I found a nice campsite and the next morning continued upward to the gap. 

Bill was right, nothing too memorable. Looking south into Bridger Wilderness.

Looking north into Popo Agie Wilderness. 

The Sweetwater Gap Trail, as well as the Stough Creek Lakes Trail were used frequently by livestock thus they were quite mucked up. 

I stopped at the waterfall again to enjoy them in much better light. 

Back at Tayo Park, still no wildlife. 

Cool find along the way. 

I love finding the little pops of color. 

Heading back into open grazing area. 

I wasn’t really convinced this sloppy x gate would do a very good job keeping the cows out, especially given the human element of placing the log back in the correct position. 

I was on the final stretch to close the counterclockwise loop as I stepped onto the Stough Creek Lakes Trail #702.

I love bridges and am thankful everytime I find one over waterways or marshy areas. Thank you again trail builders and maintenance crews. 

When there isn’t a bridge, water crossings look like this. If you look around you might find a log, such as this one upstream, or rocks providing opportunities to keep your feet dry. 

Over the years, I’ve become more proficient with log and rock crossings. For some reason today was not my day. I stood on the end of this log and felt slight vertigo. Instead of listening to my intuition, I took a second step, immediately loosing my balance and falling in. I twisted my knee in the process. Thankfully the water was shallow. I’ve never experienced vertigo on a log crossing before. It’s gonna take a while to rebuild confidence. I should have just walked through, afterall my feet were already wet. 

I arrived at Big Stough Lake to find these llamas. Later I met the five gals who used them as pack animals. Convenient yes, but they sure mucked up the trails. 

I spent time exploring the areas searching for a view campsite. I landed near Shoal Lake. 

This rocky hillside beckoned me to the top so I could get uninterrupted 360 degree views of the area.

Shoal Lake

Views from the top. 

It was hard saying goodbye to this beautiful place the next morning. But given I had very little food left and hoped to meet my friends later that day, it was time to say so long. 

I’ll be back I’m sure. 

So much water coming out of the outlet. 

The llamas were getting ready for another day of adventure also. 

Back on the main trail, my feet were feeling the urgency of town calling. Real food! 

All of the main trails on the loop have been logged out. Some very recently by the smell and look of those trees. Thank you again trail maintainers. You are my heroes! 

Another new find. 

When they are in full blooms, they are going to be an amazing sight. 

My pole gives an idea as to size of the plants. 

There were a couple rubble fields and it sure was nice to have a trail cut through. 

Stough Creek Pass provided some WOW views! I’d love to camp up here, but carrying water up the long steep ascent makes it a highly unlikely possibility. I truly lucked out getting to enjoy these views before the thunderstorms turned this peaceful setting into a forceful one.

There was a little snow on the trail as I started down the pass. Not 15 minutes later, it started sprinkling. I attached my umbrella and kept hiking. Soon it began to hail. 

Then the skies let loose and I got a real soaking as the trails turned into rivers. I was thankful for both my umbrella and Frogg Toggs poncho. The rocks and mud made for a slippery treacherous descent, especially with my sore knee from my water crossing incident of the previous day.

What? Another lake outlet crossing? More muck to wade through at the Roaring Fork Lake outlet. 

I’m standing in the middle of the crossing at Roaring Fork Lake. Swim anyone? Maybe on a different day. I was plenty wet after an hour or so of rain. 

Oh how you have to love Mother Nature.

The completion of the loop. Success!

A few things I picked up on my way out the last day. It’s important to practice LNT (Leave No Trace). 

I could have survived a few more hours on the food I had left. I love it when my planning works out and I don’t carry home extra weight. The Pro Bars are my meal of last resort and they seem to get carried more than ever eaten. I ran out of fuel my last night and had cold breakfast thus the reason my oats were not eaten.

Hike Details:

  • Date(s) Hiked: 7/27-29/17
  • Mileage: Approximately 20-22 miles
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: Unknown, but a LOT. Thus far in the Winds I’ve found very little flat.
  • Trail Conditions:
    • Tree obstacles: All clear!
    • Overgrowth: Main trails, zero. A bit on the secondary trails to the lakes
    • Signage: Good on main trails. Non existent on secondary trails.
    • Terrain: Good on main trails with some snow and muddy muck conditions
  • Water: Plentiful
  • Camping: Plentiful
  • Solitude: Moderate, although I didn’t see anyone between Stough Basin and Tayo except for the group of 5 gals. I saw quite a few people between Stough Basin and the trailhead.
  • Bugs: Plentiful although I didn’t need deet
  • Precip: Thunderstorms daily in July
  • Temp: Lows of 30’s to 40’s, highs 60’s to 70’s.
  • Jan’s Cherry Picker Delight Scale: 4++ cherries (out of 5). Would be a 5 if trails weren’t so mucky from livestock.

Tips:

  • Be prepared for altitude, elevation changes, weather changes, snow, bugs and navigation.

Links:

Resources:

by

WY – Popo Agie Wilderness, Worthen Meadows Trailhead (Part 2 of 3)

After enjoying a memorable morning at Lower Deep Creek Lake (see previous post for details on the hike to the lake), it was time to dry out my gear (snow fields create lots of condensation, as does setting up in the rain). Sunshine makes me happy! 

As my gear dried I watched the mackerel clouds. Did you know there are a ton of poems about these formations? I think this one is most appropriate, “Low’rin clouds, low’rin skies, Stay indoors if you are wise. Mackerel sky, mackerel sky, Never long wet, never long dry.” 

And after the storm, the flowers were heavy with damp, but all shiny and clean. 

Goodbye for now Lower Deep Creek Lake. 

It was time to head south on the Ice Lakes Trail #706, that is as soon as I could find it. 

I was trying to avoid this mess, home of the real trail.

After a bit of navigating, I found clear trail. I was prepared to turnaround if conditions were too gnarly.

There was plenty of snow around, but little on the trail that couldn’t be avoided.

Happy splashes of color could be found around every corner. It feels like spring, even though it’s the last week of July.

Blue or purple columbine, just like in Colorado. Stunning! 

And then I found a yellow one. 

Water was rushing gushing creating nature’s music and near constant wet feet conditions. 

This lake or pond was still partially frozen over and the entire surface was covered in a thin sheen of ice. 

Hello reflection! I believe this was Ridge or Cliff Lake. 

I climbed a hill to catch this view of Jug and Boot Lakes or maybe Ridge Lakes?

Cliff Lake? I was so distracted by the beauty I forgot to notate times on my maps so they’d coincide with my camera time. Please help me out if you know the correct names.

Since I promised myself I’d mostly stay on trail, I avoided further exploration of other lakes in the Ice Lakes Basin and instead headed up to the first pass where rain was threatening. Remember those mackerel clouds? 

The lighting was amazing as I watched the storm ebb and flow. 

I climbed off trail for better views. 

See my umbrella? I hid out under this rock and had lunch waiting out the storm, then climbed to the top of the boulders for more views. 

Oops I overshot and hiked down well below my umbrella rock. Look closely . . . I guess I needed those bonus miles. 

With the storm giving me a bit of a reprieve, I knew it was time to say goodbye to my roost and head to a protected area before thunder and lightning made an appearance. 

You know you’re going to be in for some technical descending when you see a sign like this. Should be fun with wet slick rock.

First easily unavoidable snow on trail. 

The views were outstanding. 

Then back to clear trails. 

As I rejoined the trail after my extra credit sightseeing at the pass, I met Bill who was also hiking south. He is an avid fisherman and was heading to Tayo Lake. It was on my possible list, so we decided to share some miles on this much less maintained trail (Tayo Lake #707). 

Bill taking a walk on the wild side, wildflower side that is. 

Bill caught a beautiful Golden Trout at stunning Tayo Lake. 

About 4:30am, Bill woke up and said I think we are about to get wet. We had to quickly put on our rain tarps as we both enjoyed the stars through the mesh of our tents sans fly. 

I got up to watch the storm. Found this great rock to lounge on while staying warm bundled in down and drinking hot beverages. Let the entertainment begin. Who needs a TV?

The storm commeth’, the storm goeth’, and Bill fisheth’.  Notice the iceberg in bottom left corner near Bill. When we arrived last night there were two large chunks of ice floating not far from shore; after the storm only one remained and it was headed toward the outlet.

To be continued . . .

Hike Details:

  • Date(s) Hiked: 7/26/17
  • Mileage: Approximately 8-10
  • Elevation Gain/Loss: Unknown, didn’t track but plenty
  • Trail Conditions:
    • Tree obstacles: none
    • Overgrowth: none on Ice Lakes Trail but plenty of Willow thickets on the route to Tayo Lake
    • Signage: good, plan for cairn and route finding on the Tayo Lake Trail
    • Terrain: moderate, plan for snow and muck travel
  • Water: plentiful
  • Camping: excellent
  • Solitude: Expect company on the Ice Lakes Trail but less likely on the Tayo Lake Trail
  • Bugs: plentiful but I didn’t need deet
  • Precip: expect thunderstorms in July
  • Temp: Overnight varied and seemed to fluctuate a lot from low 30’s to high 40’s; daytime highs were probably in 70’s.
  • Jan’s Cherry Picker Delight Scale: 4+++ cherries (out of 5) (would have been a 5 if I could have accessed Tayo Lake without mucking through bogs and bushwhacking through willow thickets)

Tips:

  • Be prepared for altitude, elevation changes, weather changes, snow, bugs and navigation.

Links:

Resources: